Happy 2020 everyone. A lot has transpired since my last post so we have quite a bit to catch up on. The first thing I would like to touch base on is that I am no longer in Nashville. While I did love living in Tennessee, the work culture there is pretty toxic. More on that in another post. Although the Nashville experiment did not pan out, I am happy to say that I am back in Chicago for the time being.
I didn’t really think that I would ever move back here for a second time, but here I am. Illinois is still awful, but Chicago does have its perks. Most notably, I am closer to some Rum Family members and there is an actual expressive service industry here. And so far, it has been one hell of a homecoming for me in that regard.
In December as the holiday season was getting ready to launch into full swing, I was fortunate enough to be invited to Three Dots and a Dash by my “r(h)ummy” Melissa Pinkerton from SPIRIBAM. It was to help celebrate the launch of two new marks for the Chairman’s Reserve Master Selection line bottled for Three Dots and a Dash. As if that wasn’t enough to be excited over; I became even more excited when I learned that their Managing Director and Great-Nephew of Homère Clément, Benjamin Jones was in attendance for the evening.
As I sat at my table, I am presented with a serving mat and given three glasses. The first is the Chairman’s Reserve Master Selection 8 year. A blend of 50/50 column to pot still rums using both of St. Lucia Distiller Group’s yeast strains. The other, perfuming the air around me already, a 19 year tropically-aged, cask-strength rum coming off of one of their John Dore pot stills. And for dessert, a proper daiquiri made with the 8-year selection.
CHAIRMAN’S RESERVE MASTER SELECTION 8 YEAR
BOTTLED FOR THREE DOTS AND A DASH
As stated earlier, this blend is a 50:50 ratio of pot to column distillate and makes use of both house yeast strains. I am not sure if this utilizes John Dore #1, a 454-liter double-retort pot still (used for both molasses and cane juice mash) or John Dore #2, the larger 6,000-liter double-retort pot still. In either case, both make use of yeast Type B fermented mash.
The column portion of the blend is distilled from their twin-column still. Lighter rums pulled from the top of the still, are made with yeast Type A. The heavier and medium rums pulled from the middle and lower portions of the still that is made with yeast Type B.
This blend, in particular, is comprised of a low-end column still rum that was married with a previously blended high-end column still and pot still rums and is bottled at 54% abv.
APPEARANCE
Because these were review on-location at Three Dots, I cannot tell you anything about the actual color of these rums. The whole place is underground and lit by candles, Hawaiian shirts, and maybe an Emergency Exit sign. I will, however, leave a photo of the bottles taken by Tara White. They are pretty bottles.
AROMA
The first thing that is surprisingly apparent, is a slightly old, dusty aroma. Something akin to walking into woodshop ran by a cigar smoker that is being aired out. It is not overpowering, but you can tell that it was at one point, prevalent. Underneath that there are notes of almond milk chocolates Hersey Kisses, cherry cordials, a medicinal petroleum jelly along with more warm, earthy, sundried vanilla bean husks.
PALATE
Soft, floral, honey sweetness is the first to hit the tongue. The sweetness is short-lived however as the flavor predominately becomes peppermint. It takes a couple of sips to get through the menthol, but eventually, flavors of fresh banana and custard start to balance the profile a bit more.
FINISH
This is a very unique rum and placing some of the notes is a little bit more difficult than expected. Flavors can best be described as a sweet and sour twang lingers on for a while. As the spirit breaks down more on the palate; there is a faint glow of pine sap resin and pineapple oil that hangs on in the distance.
CHAIRMAN’S RESERVE MASTER SELECTION 19 YEAR
BOTTLED FOR THREE DOTS AND A DASH
While the first bottling of the night had my curiosity, this one certainly had my attention. Distilled in 2000, this rum was distilled John Dore No. 1 and was aged in ex-bourbon barrels before being bottled at (a relatively tame) cask strength 53.1% abv. Only 341 bottles were produced.
APPEARANCE
N/A
AROMA
Coincidentally, my last time at Three Dots and a Dash, I ended my evening with a Hamilton St. Lucia 9 year bottled at cask strength. The aroma was so pungent it could be smelled as the server was bringing it to the table. My best friend who was a heavy equipment operator in the Marine Corps said that is “smells like work”.
The aroma on this, will intense, is not over the top. The first thing noticed is a rich, deep, complex sweetness of old manuka honey. Like a floral perfumed caramelized sugar. From there the aromas take a sharp left turn into new tires, fermented lemon curd, and Teriyaki sauce.
PALATE
This rum is taking a page from a well-aged Islay scotch. For those unaware; when left to age long enough, those smokey phenols in peated whiskey drop off and leave you with a deep, Earth driven sweetness and old smoke. This reminds me of that character.
Old rubber bands leaps from the glass followed quickly by a fresh maritime character. I’m on a train, traveling down the coast of Scotland all over again. From there, caramel sauce reduction and freshly cut papaya that sweetens and mellows the industrial character.
FINISH
The flavor that lingers on the palate of old, unadulterated rum, is a beautiful thing. Notes of leather and vanilla cavendish pipe tobacco sit beautifully on the palate. Neither fighting to be first, they just are. Each playoff the other, enhancing each-others character. This would probably pair perfectly with some slippers and a house jacket. Perhaps a future gift set idea. The longer the spirit sits, the more prevalent the alcohol becomes. It is not sharp or biting; but turns to a slightly bitter, floral note of bergamot oil and fresh violets.
OVERALL
These are rums of experience. I was not expecting anything better than the Chairman’s Forgotten Cask from the 8-year and was worried about an overtly pungent rum from the 19-year, but these were dialed-in expertly. There is a ton of complexity and character in both of these marks to have everyone curious enough to at least buy a pour and experience it for themselves.
Aside from the fun of enjoying some really fantastic rums. And being able to meet and greet with other rum enthusiasts here in the Chicago area. I would be remiss to not mention the pleasure of meeting Benjamin Jones.
I have met a lot of individuals that would be regarded as a celebrity in this industry. Everyone from Dr. Bill Lumsden at Glenmorangie/Ardbeg, Richard Seale at Foursquare, and the late Al Young of Four Roses on multiple occasions. If there is one thing I am always left in awe of, it is how down to Earth and humble each of these individuals is. Benjamin Jones is no exception. The fact that he took the time to get to know the fans around him and ask us what it is about rum we enjoy was a blast.
This is why I support brands like this. They’re committed to adding value to their customers. This is why I look forward to watching the continued growth of SPIRIBAM.
Cheers.
