As some of you may already know from previous blogs, interviews and personal conversation; Elijah Craig is/was the quintessential bourbon for me. When I first began drinking bourbon 13 years ago, I ran I my way through the typical gambit. Jim Beam, Knob Creek, Buffalo Trace, Jack Daniels (hush), Evan Williams, Eagle Rare and the such. For me though, it was Elijah Craig that cemented what a quality bourbon was to me. So, I thought it would be perfect to have showdown with as many expressions of the Elijah Craig line as possible to find out what represents the label as best as possible.
The Elijah Craig line is currently one of the premium lines of bourbon offered by Heaven Hill Distillery in Bardstown, Kentucky. The bourbon is named after the Preacher Elijah Craig whom is regard by most to be the Father of Bourbon. He was a Baptist from Virginia in what is now modern-day Kentucky. He is said to be the first to but corn distillate in charred oak barrel which is what gives bourbon it’s signature color and flavor profile. Some say this decision to char barrels was to remove the off odors from storing salted fish, but as Booker Noe once stated; “Who the hell would…” http://articles.chicagotribune.com/1994-12-22/entertainment/9412220327_1_high-end-bourbons-elijah-craig-native-spirit
Elijah Craig has since become a staple in the bourbon category and has expressions ranging from the now retired 12-year to barrel proof and all the way up to 23-year age statements.
So, let the showdown begin.
ELIJAH CRAIG NAS
COLOR: A vibrant core of light honey with dirty copper penny highlights.
NOSE: More savory than expected. The younger whiskey in this blend highlights the higher rye content of the bourbon. Notes of yeasty rye bread and dill push their way forward with dusty dry cinnamon and clove.
PALATE: A sweet arrival of muddied brown sugar, marmalade and juicy red berries.
MOUTHFEEL: Syrupy
FINISH: Cinnamon redhots, dried ginger, tannic oak, bitter bell pepper and sweet anise.
ELIJAH CRAIG 12 YEAR
COLOR: A perfect hue of auburn and fall leaves.
NOSE: Instantly greeted by welcoming aromas of spiced mulled cherries (I find to be typical of Heaven Hill’s yeast strain). Musty, damp leaves, brown sugar, dried oranges flesh, damp oak.
PALATE: Creamy brown sugar, vanilla beans, French press coffee, burnt croissant, fruit leather and cherry bubblegum (thanks yeast).
MOUTHFEEL: Velvety and evenly coats the palate.
FINISH: Coffee notes turn to espresso, dry dust cinnamon, oak and bitter pipe tobacco – not in a bad way, but more of the acidic note you get as you reach the end of a bowl of Kentucky Fire Cured tobacco.
ELIJAH CRAIG 12 YEAR BARREL PROOF B517
COLOR: Much like the regular 12 year E.C.; it appears to look like autumn in a glass.
NOSE: Once you get past the initial sting of alcohol, caramelized brown sugar and burnt oak reveal themselves. They are immediately washed over by waves of chocolate chip cookie dough and cinnamon.
PALATE: The wave of flavor (TM pending) is muddled at first. After a couple of sips and the taste buds adjust, the complex profile breaks itself down. Heavy, rich caramel, toasted vanilla bean, cookie butter (speculaas) and campfire peach cobbler.
MOUTHFEEL: Heavy, oily, hot.
FINISH: Very heavy oak that saps the moisture from my mouth, earthy and robust cinnamon and woody herbaceous rosemary.
ELIJAH CRAIG 12 YEAR BARREL PROOF C917
COLOR: Same as Batch B517.
NOSE: Dusty oak and clove are at the forefront. After a while, it smooths out into vanilla extract and orange peel with bits of celery on the accent. Not much in the way of sweetness.
PALATE: Immediate bitter orange pith followed by the French press coffee I get from the regular 12 year and a dense fudge like character.
MOUTHFEEL: Incredibly rich, fat and chewy.
FINISH: Wow is this tannic and moisture sapping. One dimensional with notes of peppery oak and menthol.
ELIJAH CRAIG 18 YEAR SINGLE BARREL
COLOR: Light amber core with burnt red edges.
NOSE: Light for an older bourbon. Light brown sugar and ripe red fruits (welcome back HH Yeast). A slight vegetal note not as pronounced as Batch C917 and sweet licorice.
PALATE: Oak makes itself known here in a good way. Tannic in a good way with bright white pepper and subtle sweetness that is accented by bright pops of sweet anise.
MOUTHFEEL: Wonderfully silky.
FINISH: The opposite of what you’d expect. The finish the star here; long lasting and satiating notes of Belgian rock candy and fresh picked summer berries.
ELIJAH CRAIG 21 SINGLE BARREL
COLOR: Deceptively light. Light amber and golden honey edges.
NOSE: Dried orange peels and back to the classic Elijah cherry notes. Bright tart cranberry and crisp apples. Sorry Elijah 21, I’m gonna need to double check that ID.
PALATE: Oak has dropped off on the palate somehow and balanced notes of allspice and violets are rounded out by warm vanilla.
MOUTHFEEL: Disappointingly thin.
FINISH: Light butterscotch and balsamic vinegar, musty oak that drops off to nothing.
ELIJAH CRAIG 23
COLOR: Rich mahogany.
NOSE: Oak and lots of it. White pepper, my cherry notes have now become those muddled canned cherries you get with school lunches. Leather, dark honey, ash and fennel.
PALATE: Strawberry balsamic vinegar, heavy brown sugar, muddled, sweet cream.
MOUTHFEEL: Flabby.
FINISH: Tannic red wine without the fruitiness.
THE WINNER – ELIJAH CRAIG 12 YEAR
Personal preferences aside; there is a reason why you cannot find a regular 12-year age statement of this label anymore. This, for me, is what a bourbon should and forever will be. It is perfectly balanced in everyway possible. Typically, I am a huge fan of barrel proof bourbons and don’t get me wrong, I see why B517 won Whiskey of the Year, but it can be easily overwhelming to the palate and can get lost from being over-diluted.
RUNNER-UP – ELIJAH CRAIG 12 YEAR B517
Again, Whiskey of the Year for 2017 for a reason. Rich, Robust and full of great bourbon flavor. However, it takes great care to bring it down to a drinkable proof. Too high and you will numb your palate to the complexity of this batch and too much water will quickly wash it away. I suggest two teaspoons of water for every two ounces poured.
HONORABLE MENTION – ELIJAH 21
I really liked the bright tart fruitiness and spice in this expression, but found it lacking depth which is oxymoronic given the age statement. Either way, it is a wonderfully aged bourbon that I would be happy to have over Pappy 20 or 23.
AT LEAST YOU TRIED – ELIJAH CRAIG 23
Overoaked, muddled, one note and acidic. Cut this from the line up so we can focus on the younger age expressions. Rye and high-rye bourbons do not benefit from such extended aging. Such an earthy, spicy grain already, too much oak muddles all nuances.
