It is early morning in the Chicago suburbs and I am less than a week out from the Euro Trip that will soon be my life for the next couple of months. As I sit outside with my cup of coffee and bowl of Orlik: Strong Dark Kentucky, the slight chill in the air reminds me that even though it is the “Dog Days of Summer”; fall is right around the corner. So perhaps it is a good time to tell you about one of my favorite fall spirits while I have the stability to sit down and write.
I am sure that for most people autumn (and just about every season now) conjures up thoughts of bourbon. That wonderful grain spirit is known for its rich vanilla and caramel character. For me, however; I think it is an amazing time to dive into Brandy and Armagnac. In particular, Via Chicago from Copper and Kings Distillery in Louisville, KY.
Via Chicago is a collaboration between the brandy distiller and F.E.W. Spirits from Evanston, IL. The idea, according to Copper & Kings’ Master Distiller Brandon O’Daniel, was to effectively illustrate the quality of whiskey barrels coming from Chicago. Ultimately they settled on 5 to 30-gallon barrels that were used to age F.E.W.’s rye whiskey. Made from Minnesotan oak, they hold the bold and spicy whiskey with upwards of 70% rye making up the mashbill for around 4 years.
Once Copper & Kings receives these barrels, they are filled with brandy ranging from 5 to 8 years (leaning heavier towards 8 years) and placed in their cellars where they are bombarded with bass-heavy music for the next few months. Once the desired profile is achieved, it is non-chill filtered and bottled at 54.4% abv with no added sugar, caramel coloring or artificial flavoring.
COLOR
Golden honey and amber with pale straw highlights.
NOSE
Sharp and spice forward with a dominating aroma of bruised mint leaves and clove oil. As the intensity subsides, the aroma becomes a bit warmer and earthy, focusing on grape must, fennel seeds, rock candy, and slightly worn leather.
PALATE
The palate opens with a classic brandy profile. Dark stone fruits and honey hit the tip of the tongue before the proof and rye influence take over with the warm and spicy flavor gingersnap cookies and biting fresh cracked black peppercorns.
BODY
I’m not sure if the body/mouthfeel of the brandy is owed to the pot stills or the age, but it is lush and has almost a wine-like jammy feel to it.
FINISH
The finish is where this spirit shined for me and I am almost disappointed that it doesn’t make up the base of the initial palate. When the spice subsides, it leaves something like a bitter dark chocolate and star anise flavor that reveals fruity red currants, dried figs, and sulfur.
OVERALL
For how many releases I enjoyed from Copper & Kings, I am saddened that this is not part of the core line up. This brandy hits the mark for me not just as a daily pour, but incredibly versatile when it comes to cocktails. I hope there are further releases of the line that will focus on barrels from other rye producers in the Illinois area; showcasing the beautiful young ryes coming out of the state.
Given the namesake and it is a limited release; you should be able to find Via Chicago at Binny’s Beverage Depot, Total Wine locations in Kentucky as well as the Copper & Kings giftshop.
RECOMMENDED PAIRING
As I did in a previous review of Copper & King’s Floodwall Apple Brandy; I decided to pair up this wonderful bottling with a song. In particular; Blues legend Buddy Guy’s cover of “Baby Please Don’t Leave Me” from the album Sweet Tea. Originally written by Junior Kimbrough; this conjures up everything that this bottle represents. Just over 7:00 long; the opening militaristic drums beats gradually rise and lead into heavy distorted and reverberating bass . Buddy’s desperate guitar riffs kick in just before he begins to howl; “Oh baby please. Oh baby please! Oh baby please don’t leave me!”. The intense heavy bass and marching drums driving against the guitar and vocals conjure up visions of old locomotive engines at a train station ready to haul you to your next journey.
